Blog / Why Is My Hair Changing? What I Tell My Patients About Hair in Your 20s, 30s, 40s, and Beyond
Hair Health Tips

Why Is My Hair Changing? What I Tell My Patients About Hair in Your 20s, 30s, 40s, and Beyond

By Dr. Betsy Wernli |
Why Is My Hair Changing? What I Tell My Patients About Hair in Your 20s, 30s, 40s, and Beyond

One of the most common things women say to me is:

“My hair just isn’t the same anymore.”

Sometimes they’re suddenly seeing much more hair in the shower. Sometimes their ponytail feels smaller or their part looks wider. Other times they aren’t necessarily losing more hair—the hair itself has become finer, drier, more fragile, or just harder to manage.

And usually their first question is: Why?

The first thing I explain is that not all hair loss is the same.  There is a difference between shedding more hair, progressively thinning hair, and hair that is breaking or becoming damaged. They can look similar when you’re standing in front of the mirror, but medically, they can be very different problems.  That’s why when a patient comes to see me for hair loss, I don’t start by asking what shampoo she uses.  I start by asking what was happening in her life three or four months ago.  Were you sick? Did you have surgery? Have a baby? Lose a significant amount of weight? Start or stop a medication? Change birth control? Go through an unusually stressful period? Has your menstrual cycle changed? Are you eating enough protein and getting adequate nutrition?  Hair is incredibly responsive to what is happening in the rest of your body, but it responds slowly. What you see happening to your hair today may actually reflect something that happened months ago.  That timing is one of the most important things to understand about hair.  So if you were sitting in my office asking me why your hair has changed, this is probably how our conversation would go.

Your 20s: Building the Foundation and Understanding Shedding

When a younger woman tells me she is suddenly losing much more hair in the shower or on her brush, one of the first things I’m thinking about is telogen effluvium.  Telogen effluvium is a type of excessive shedding that happens when something causes more hairs than usual to shift out of the growing phase and eventually into the shedding phase.  Illness, surgery, significant emotional or physical stress, rapid weight loss, restrictive dieting, medication or hormonal changes, and nutritional deficiencies can all be triggers.  And one of the first things I ask about is protein.  Hair is primarily made of keratin, which is a protein. If someone is significantly restricting calories, losing weight quickly, or simply not eating enough protein, that can absolutely affect the hair cycle.  This has become an especially important conversation with the increased use of GLP-1 medications.  I see patients who are doing incredibly well with weight loss on these medications, but because their appetite is significantly decreased, some are simply not taking in the calories and protein they were before. Add rapid weight loss on top of that, and you have the kind of physiologic change that can trigger telogen effluvium several months later.  That doesn’t necessarily mean the medication itself is directly damaging the hair follicle. Often, I’m much more interested in how quickly someone has lost weight and whether she is still getting adequate protein and overall nutrition.

That distinction matters.  Depending on the patient and the history, I may also consider whether iron deficiency, thyroid disease, or another medical or nutritional issue could be contributing.  Then I look at what is happening to the hair itself.  Bleaching, chemical processing, frequent high heat, and tight hairstyles don’t usually cause telogen effluvium, but they can absolutely cause breakage and damage. Constant tension can also eventually cause traction alopecia.  Again, these are different problems, and they need to be treated differently.  I also remind patients that your scalp is skin.  Persistent itching, redness, scale, tenderness, or burning isn’t something I want you simply covering up with another hair product. Sometimes treating the scalp itself is an important part of getting the hair and scalp healthy again.  This is also where good daily habits matter: adequate nutrition and protein, avoiding unnecessary tension and excessive heat, protecting the hair from repeated chemical damage, and keeping the scalp healthy.  When I recommend nutritional support, I often recommend Wellbel Women because I like having a thoughtfully formulated option rather than asking patients to piece together multiple individual supplements.  But supplementation is just that, support. I still want to understand why the hair is changing in the first place.

Your 30s: Pregnancy, Postpartum, and a Very Busy Decade

For many women, pregnancy and postpartum hair changes become part of the story in their 30s.  If you’ve had a baby and suddenly started losing what feels like handfuls of hair a few months later, you’re not imagining it.  During pregnancy, higher estrogen levels keep more hairs in the growing phase, which is one reason hair often feels unusually thick and full.  After delivery, hormone levels change and many of those hairs transition into the shedding phase around the same time.  It can be dramatic.  The reassuring part is that postpartum shedding is usually temporary. For most women, the hair cycle gradually resets and density improves with time.  But not every woman in her 30s who is losing hair has postpartum shedding.  This is often an incredibly busy decade. Careers, children, less sleep, intense exercise, dieting, stress, illness—all of those things can become part of the story.  This is why I ask questions.  Are you actually shedding more hairs, or is your hair becoming progressively thinner?  Those are not necessarily the same thing.  Diffuse shedding that begins a few months after a major trigger makes me think about telogen effluvium.  A central part that is gradually becoming wider or decreasing density over the crown starts making me think about female-pattern hair loss.  And that distinction changes what I recommend.

Your 40s: When Your Hair Starts Telling You More 

This is probably the conversation I have most often.  A woman schedules an appointment because she is worried about her hair, and within a few minutes we are talking about much more than hair.  “I’m exhausted.”  “I’m not sleeping the way I used to.”  “My periods are changing.”  “My skin is different.”  “I’m more emotional than I used to be.”  “I just don’t feel like myself.”  This is where perimenopause becomes part of the conversation.  Perimenopause can begin years before menopause itself, and hormone levels don’t simply decline in a nice, predictable straight line. They fluctuate.  And hair can respond to those changes.  Women may notice increased shedding, a wider part, finer individual hairs, or less density through the crown. The hair itself may also become drier, frizzier, coarser, or simply less predictable than it used to be.  I hear this all the time: “It just doesn’t feel like my hair anymore.”  I understand why that is upsetting. Hair is personal. It is closely tied to how we see ourselves and how we feel about ourselves.  But I also don’t want women assuming every change in their 40s is simply “hormones” and therefore something they have to accept.  This is also an age when female-pattern hair loss becomes increasingly common.  If I see a progressively widening central part, decreased density over the crown, or miniaturization of the individual hairs, I’m thinking beyond temporary hormonal shedding.  When I evaluate hair loss, I’m looking at the pattern, the density, the caliber of the individual hairs, and the scalp itself. I’m also looking for inflammation or anything that makes me concerned about a scarring process.  Then the history helps me decide whether I also need to think about thyroid disease, iron deficiency, nutrition, medications, recent illness, weight loss, hormonal changes, or another trigger.  Not everyone needs an enormous panel of blood tests. The history and examination should guide what we investigate.  And sometimes we need to treat the hair loss itself.  For female-pattern hair loss, that may include treatments such as minoxidil and, in appropriate patients, other prescription options.  That is a very different conversation from treating temporary shedding.

Where Supplements Fit

I think this is an important distinction because supplements are often marketed as though everyone with hair loss simply needs more vitamins.  That isn’t how I look at it.  If someone has a nutritional deficiency, correcting that deficiency matters. But more of a vitamin is not necessarily better, and I don’t believe women need to take handfuls of individual supplements simply because they have hair on the label.  I think of nutritional supplementation as one part of a larger approach to healthy hair.  I frequently recommend Wellbel Women, and during this stage of my own life, I personally take Wellbel Women+.  I like that it is physician-formulated and combines several ingredients in one formulation rather than requiring women to put together multiple supplements themselves. Women+ includes ingredients such as zinc, copper, vitamin K2, MSM, and saw palmetto. Saw palmetto is particularly interesting because it has been studied for its potential effects on androgen-related pathways involved in hair loss.  But I want to be clear about where supplements fit.  I consider them supportive care. They do not replace diagnosing female-pattern hair loss, correcting an actual deficiency, or using evidence-based medical treatment when it is appropriate.  

Perimenopause and Menopause: Supporting Your Hair Differently

As women move through perimenopause and menopause, many tell me that their hair isn’t only thinner—it actually behaves differently.  It may feel drier, flatter, coarser, less shiny, or harder to style.  This is where I explain the difference between the follicle and the hair fiber.  The follicle underneath the skin determines the hair that is being produced. Treatments for hair loss are aimed at preserving or improving what is happening at that level.  The hair fiber is the strand you can actually see and touch.  Conditioners, masks, and other cosmetic products can make that existing hair softer, smoother, shinier, and less prone to breakage—but they are not treating progressive hair loss at the follicle.  Both matter. They just do different things.  I also don’t overlook the scalp.  If someone has significant oil, scale, or product buildup, an exfoliating ingredient such as salicylic acid can be helpful. I like Wellbel’s Gelée Detox Shampoo for this purpose because it helps remove buildup without leaving the scalp feeling overly stripped.  For the hair itself, especially hair that has become dry or is chemically processed, I like ingredients that improve the condition of the hair fiber. Wellbel’s Restorative Conditioner contains ceramides, peptides, and hyaluronic acid and is one product I like for improving softness, shine, and manageability.  That cosmetic piece matters, too.  Healthy hair isn’t only about how much hair you have. Women also want the hair they have to look and feel healthy.

When I Want You to See a Dermatologist

One thing I never want women to feel is that they simply have to accept hair loss because they are getting older.  Sometimes hair shedding really is temporary.  Sometimes there is an obvious trigger and the hair needs time to cycle back.  But there are other times when I want to see you.  If your part is progressively getting wider, your ponytail is noticeably smaller, you have been shedding excessively for months without an obvious explanation, or your hair loss is patchy, it is worth having it evaluated.  I also want to know about hair loss associated with significant itching, redness, scale, pain, or burning.  And if you are developing areas that look smooth or scarred, or you’re losing hair in other areas such as the eyebrows, I don’t want you waiting.  There are forms of inflammatory and scarring hair loss where early diagnosis and treatment matter.

What I Ultimately Tell My Patients

There is no single “hair-loss treatment” because there is no single reason women lose hair.  That is probably the most important thing I want women to understand.  Is this temporary shedding?  Is it female-pattern hair loss?  Is the hair breaking?  Is there inflammation in the scalp?  Was there significant illness, stress, pregnancy, rapid weight loss, or a major nutritional change several months ago?  Could there be an underlying medical issue?  Or—as is often the case—are several things happening at once?  Once we understand that, we can put together a plan that actually makes sense.  Sometimes that means reassurance and giving the hair cycle time to recover. Sometimes it means improving nutrition or increasing protein. Sometimes we need to correct an underlying deficiency, treat the scalp, protect the hair from breakage, or add nutritional support.  And sometimes we need to medically treat the hair loss itself.  The other thing I tell women is to be patient.  Hair grows slowly. Meaningful changes in shedding, growth, and density happen over months, not days or weeks.  And finally, trust yourself.  You know your hair better than anyone else. If your hair suddenly feels different, your part looks different, or something simply doesn’t seem right, don’t dismiss it.  Most of the time there is a reason.  My job as a dermatologist is to figure out what is contributing to that change, explain it in a way that makes sense, and help you decide what we should do about it.  Helping women understand what is happening to their hair—and helping them feel confident about it again—is one of the most rewarding parts of what I do.


Have a Blessed Day,

Betsy Wernli, MD, FAAD, President, Chairman of the Physician Board - Forefront Dermatology